We love our engineering so much, we want you to know exactly how much thought and effort went into each component of our lights. This is the 17 step breakdown of how one of our light heads are assembled, and what each part does. Enjoy!

Step 1

We start with a lightweight CAD/CAE designed Magnesium AZ91D die cast that has been powdercoated the signature dark grey color.

Step 2

The oversize silicone button with the Outbound logo is installed, it features a built in seal to maintain the IP65 rating.

Step 3

A clear silicone light pipe is installed. This presses up against the status LED’s and allow for the light to bounce up the pipes and be visible. The face of the light pipe also acts as the seal against water ingress.

Step 4

A black silicone sleeve wraps the light pipe and acts as a shield to block any light that may try to escape, so that each status light is extremely clear to read from the outside.

Step 5

A large sheet of Thermal Interface Material (TIM) is installed, this helps transfer the heat from the LED board to the housing. This item is critical in filling in all the surface imperfections and creating a strong bond against the LED board. Without this the LED chip would overheat very quickly.

Step 6

The custom thickness aluminum core PCB with the Lumiled Altilon LED chip is installed. This is an automotive grade chip that has an incredibly small emitting area. One of the key technologies as to why the Outbound Lights perform as well as they do. The aluminum core PCB allows for the thermal load to be spread across the housing more efficiently, which lets the LED run cooler.

Step 7

The power input wire is installed. This features a customized overmold grommet which adds to the IP65 rating. The connector used creates a reliable connection without the use of solder. This also provides additional strain relief on the wiring to prevent any issues from the input connection being pulled beyond normal activity.

Step 8

The efficient LED driver is installed next. Not shown is the conformal coating that is applied to the driver board to boost the reliability. It helps prevent electrical shorts due to moisture or corrosion.

Step 9

The driver board connects to the LED MPCB through a solid state connector. Again, no solder joints that are often a point of failure in high vibration environments such as Mountain and Road Biking. It is screwed down to the housing with two Torx screws that also acts as a thermal bridge to pull residual heat from the driver board.

Step 10

The small Torx screw used to hold the reflector in place is installed. The reflector (in this case the Trail Edition reflector is shown) is inspected for any imperfections.

Step 11

The reflector is installed and tightened down. It is located by 3 small holes on the LED MPCB to ensure perfect alignment on every light. After the reflector is installed the light is powered up by a power supply to check that the beam pattern is correct, that the LED is functioning properly, and the various modes are working as programmed.

Step 12

The bottom half of the light is then worked on. Another lightweight CAD/CAE designed Magnesium AZ91D die cast is inspected and prepared. We install a small breather patch over the small hole. This acts as a pressure equalizer in the light so that condensation that may build up due to changes in humidity and temperature can escape without harm to the electrical components.

Step 13

Another thermal interface material is installed. This sandwiches the MPCB LED board between the two housings, applying an even pressure that lets the thermal pathway function at it’s best. A small locknut is also installed. This is where the bar mount or go-pro mount is screwed into. A locknut was used due to the risk of users accidentally stripping the threads on a die cast component. This way if the screw is installed improperly we can change out a small replaceable nut instead of throwing away a critical component.

Step 14

The silicone lens is finally installed. This is a unique material that is ultra-clear, but is also soft enough to be used as a grommet. The lens itself wraps around the entire light, and when the top half of the light is installed it will form a watertight seal.

Step 15

The top half is joined with the lower half. The part slide together seamlessly despite the tight tolerances between the casting and the lens.

Step 16

Two M3 hex screws are installed and tightened down. These pull the two halves of the light together, acting as the final join. It compresses the lens seal, the thermal interface material, and the electrical connector so that a high performance light is born!

Step 17

After final join, the light is visually inspected for any imperfections or damage. It is then powered up again to check for any issues after the join and after components have been compressed into place. At this point the lighthead is complete, and set aside before the mounting solution is installed and sent out to a customer.