"Design for Manufacturing"

That's the key. That is what let's Outbound lights stay American made. It's a design philosophy which puts the focus not only on product performance but how it is put together as well. That way assembly is quick, accurate, reliable, and painless. It's a process that is often forgotten about by overseas manufactures who can rely on cheap labor to put together complex lights that still don't perform well.It's no secret sauce, anyone can take apart any product and figure out how it's made. Here is exactly how an Outbound light is assembled!

Step 1

Every Outbound light starts with a CAD designed and CAE optimized die cast Magnesium AZ91D heat sink that is powdercoated a signature dark grey.

Step 2

A large oversized silicone button is installed, this allows for easy operation even in freezing weather with thick gloves and provides a waterproof seal.

Step 3

Silicone status light pipes are installed. These pipes transfer the light from the small low-power LED's to the top. A large flange is near the top to provide the sealing surface.

Step 4

A silicone "light blocker" is installed over the light pipe to enhance the efficiency. It also blocks any residual or stray light from the main LED while providing a positioning element for the driver board.

Step 5

Thermal interface material (TIM) is installed, this is a crucial feature missed on many "cheap" lights. The TIM helps heat effectively exit the main LED board and sink into the heat sink so that it can be wicked away by the air. Thermal management is absolutely crucial in small high power lights.

Step 6

Our LED board is then installed. An authentic Lumiled LUXEON Altilon SMD 1x5 LED chip sits on top of an aluminum core PCB with a small temperature sensing chip next to it to monitor the critical junction temperature of the LED.

Step 7

We have power! Well, power input at least. A custom overmolded DC5521 connector is installed. The input is not soldered, a unique feature not found on ANY bike light. This allows for an extremely reliable connection that can handle high vibration environments.

Step 8

The driver PCBA is ready to be installed. A complex high-efficiency driver is the heart of how we can have such incredible run-times compared to the competition. Solid state hardware and connectors join the two PCB's so that the driver is kept separate from the main LED board that will get very hot. Another feature that was designed for reliability.

Step 9

Held in place with two torx screws. This allows for fast assembly compared to a traditional Phillips head that will strip and slip when dealing with small screw sizes such as this. A power-on test is performed at this step to ensure everything is working properly before moving on.

Step 10

Reflector time! The core technology is prepared. Each reflector is examined for any imperfections before being placed. The Trail reflector is shown here.

Step 11

Installation is a breeze in part to 3 location holes and the screw that holds it precisely in place. This means that the LED is located precisely to the reflector everytime without needing to measure.

Step 12

We move onto the lower casting now. Another CAD designed and CAE optimized magnesium AZ91D die cast that is powdercoated. There is a small hole that is covered with a breathable vent patch. This lets the pressure inside the lamp housing stay equalized which reduces the chance of fogging.

Step 13

Another patch of Thermal Interface Material is applied, along with an M3 nyloc nut to hold the mounts together. Why a nut instead of a tapped hole in the casting? We know not everyone is perfect, and may accidentally strip or cross-thread when changing mounts, so we wanted a serviceable option instead of having to throw away the entire casting, if something like that happens we just change the nut.

Step 14

The silicone lens is installed! This is an extremely unique and new material never used in bike lighting but is gaining use in automotive lighting. In our case it allows the light to be lighter and it acts as a seal around the entire housing. No tiny grommets that get torn easily.

Step 15

The top half and the bottom half are joined, and it's starting to look like a bike light now! The seal is checked and the parts are fitted before being torqued down.

Step 16

Two M3 hex screws are used in the final install. The screws are deep inside the housing and hidden from view. These are carefully torqued since it can be easy to over-torque and strip the cut threads inside a magnesium die cast.

Step 17

After torquing the light is powered up and checked one more time for smooth operation. It is also brought up to temperature to ensure the thermal control is working. The lights are then set aside and ready for the mount joining and into the box for final shipping.

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